A few years ago, my husband and I began a new Christmas eve tradition with some of our local friends. We decided to each cook something that reminded us of our ethnic backgrounds and Christmas foods of our youth. Nobody collaborated beforehand to make sure we had an even mix of side dishes, desserts, and main courses...the idea was to just cook whatever made us feel good. Christmas comfort food.
This year our little party has grown. I have no clue what my guests are bringing, but here's what I'm making:
- Tourtiere - this is a traditional French Canadian meat pie from my maternal grandfather's side of the family. I make mine with a mixture of ground pork, ground beef, salt, pepper, cinnamon, allspice, and ground gloves. I add some bread crumbs to hold it all together and bake it in a pie shell. The memories this dish evoke powerful memories of my grandfather who I adored. In fact, as I was cooking today, I burst into tears as I remembered turning his recliner upsidedown when I was a child to look for coins that fell out of his pockets. We always searched under the recliner when we visited.
- Coconut Custard Pie - my maternal grandma made the best coconut custard pie with just a hint of nutmeg in it. Browned on the top, and creamy and rich on the inside, it transports me waaaaay back to a time when I believed in Santa. I've always loved eggy-custardy desserts. Next to creme brulee this is my fave.
- Bakewell Tart - Bakewell Tart is a traditional English recipe. My recipe was handed down from my great grandmother and the tradition is that you get the recipe when you get married and are not allowed to share it. It's simply a buttery crust, with preserves (usually raspberry or current) on top with a topping made of egg, coconut, almond extract and sugar. In my family, we always called it English pastry. It was not until I married a Brit in the 80s that I found out, it was really called Bakewell Tart. Whatever you call it, it's a family tradition that reminds me of simpler, kinder family times.
The aromas coming out of my kitchen today are incredible. They remind me of a white house in Connecticut many years ago.
On my stereo I have Handel's Messiah playing. Not just any recording...oh no...this is a recording that I sang in way back in the early 80s when I was heavily involved in the Southern Connecticut State University Choir and Glee Club. This particular performance was done with the Yale choir and the New Haven Symphony Orchestra. The few hours of standing while performing just flew by as I concentrated on my alto part. It gives me shivers to listen to it now. The funny thing is that I have not performed in the Messiah in years, yet I remember my part perfectly, no sheet music needed to sing along. I can sing it perfectly, on pitch and with confidence - no thought required.
It's interesting how some stuff (music, food, physical activities) becomes so ingrained in our memories that they become part of our cellualar makeup. We remember them without even thinking and they evoke the most powerful of emotions.
Between the food and the music, I am feeling teary and emotional. (Maybe that's the onions I'm slicing causing the tears...I dunno.) The mix of new traditions and old traditions gets me pretty worked up, I admit sheepishly and sappily, yet warmly. My wish is that each of my guests tonight feels similarly as we share food and drink from Christmas past.
Wishing you peace and a happy Christmas. I'm off for a few days. May your next few days be filled with good food and joyful memories...whatever that means for you.
Ann Zuccardy, Vermont Shortbread Company
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